Over a decade ago, former Westword food editor Mark Antonation began his food-writing career by eating his way up Federal Boulevard. Now, we’re turning our attention to another vibrant culinary corridor.

The four-plus-mile stretch of Havana Street between Dartmouth and Sixth Avenue in Aurora is home to the most diverse array of international cuisine available in the metro area. From restaurants and markets to take-and-go shops and stands, food lovers of nearly any ethnicity or interest can find a place that will remind them of home or open new culinary doors. In Eat Up Havana, Antony Bruno will visit them all, one by one, week by week.

Previous stops:

• Old Town Hot Pot
  
• Leezakaya
• Chutney Indian Cuisine
• El Tequileno
• Milkroll
• Shin Myung Gwan Korean BBQ
• Watan Restaurant & Bakery
• Las Fajitas
• Mr. Tang
• Nana’s Dim Sum & Dumplings
• Yemen Grill
• Tofu House
• Sushi Katsu
• Coco Loco
• Ali Restaurant & Bakery
• Thank Sool Pocha
• Taqueria Corona
• Hanyang Wang Jokbal
• Coffee Story
• Tofu Story
• Havana Street Night Markets
• Seoul BBQ & Hot Pot (the Hot Pot)
  
• Seoul BBQ & Hot Pot (the BBQ)
  
• Pho 75
  
• Yong Gung

Next Up: Chopsticks A GoGo

Opening a restaurant on this stretch of Havana Street takes guts. It’s a risk to open a restaurant anywhere, of course. But doing so along Aurora’s densely populated restaurant row is particularly challenging given the established culinary firepower of the area.

Many eateries on Havana have changed hands over the years, but more often than not the new owners retain the existing branding, making only small changes to the menu in order to retain existing customers.

But some take the added risk of establishing something entirely different, with a new concept and new name and new culinary focus, all in pursuit of the alluring yet elusive American Dream. These entrepreneurs — often with years of restaurant experience under their belts while working for others — feel an irresistible pull to establish their own place, cook their own food, and put their own stamp on the world. The pull is so great they’ll not only take the financial risk, but also absorb the physical toll of doing so.

That’s the driving force behind Chopsticks A GoGo, which opened in the former Shi Maio Dao (aka “10 Seconds”) Yunnan Rice Noodles space. Husband-and-wife team of Benjamin Canche and Nicole Huang replaced the former restaurant’s sign and menu (but not the still-branded tables) with their own take on classic American-Chinese comfort food three months ago, and have been working day and night since to get it established.

Like many small business owners, they do double or even triple duty cooking the food, serving the tables, and doing the cleaning without any additional staff. For a restaurant open from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. (with delivery until 2 a.m.) nearly daily, that’s a grind that few restaurant owners are prepared for.

Why such long hours? According to Canche, it’s a matter of survival. Chopsticks shares a parking lot with Korean BBQ & Hot Pot, Tofu Story and Pho 75 (owned by the Seoul Hospitality Group empire), as well as Yong Gung. All have been around for years, making it an intimidating group to go up against as a small, family-owned eatery.

Chopsticks’ strategy, then, is to stay open later than anyone else, when competition is less fierce.

“Everyone here closes at 10 p.m.,” Canche says. “After that, it’s our turn.”

Canche knows all about late-night Chinese-food cravings. Since coming here from Mexico over ten years ago, he’s worked almost exclusively in Chinese restaurant kitchens. He got his start in front of the fryer at the former New Orient Vietnamese restaurant near Leetsdale and Iliff (now Cody’s Cafe & Bar). He then trucked up to Longmont to work at the Asian Cafe & Grill, where he remained for seven years, starting as a prep cook and promoted to the line after just two weeks. It was here that he learned how to make the classic American-Chinese sauces that he features at Chopsticks today.

“I just kept learning,” he says. “Everywhere I go, I learn stuff, because maybe in the future I may need it. And now I’m using all that.”

Following a stint helping open Johnny’s Asian Bistro in Parker, Canche began looking for opportunities to strike out on his own. At first, he toyed with the idea of a food truck. But then he jumped at the chance to take on this space when seller financing became available through the site’s former owners.

The Chopsticks A GoGo menu pays homage to Canche’s restaurant background with straightforward dine-in and takeout fare. Think sweet-and-sour chicken and Happy Family, as well as a bangin’ salt-and-pepper shrimp. The lunch menu offers the time-tested standard combo of an egg roll with soup (choice of hot & sour, wonton or egg drop), served with the classic bright red and yellow sweet and hot mustard dipping sauces.

While Canche does the cooking, Huang waits tables and deals with the register. Takeout orders are handled by DoorDash, which represents the majority of ChopsticksAGoGo’s business at the moment. Soon, they hope to bring in someone to help. But for now, it’s just the two of them, their experience, and a dream.

Oh, and the name? It was Huang’s idea.

“I leave all that stuff to her,” Canche says. “I just bring my tools and my heart.”

Chopsticks A GoGo is open Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Wednesday from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m., and Saturday and Sunday from noon to 1 a.m. at 2000 South Havana Street in Aurora. Find more information at chopsticksagogo.fronteats.com.